AATCC TM131-2019 Test Method for Colorfastness to Steam Pleating 耐蒸汽褶皱色牢度试验方法

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250 AATCC TM131-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

1. Purpose and Scope

1.1 This test method is intended for as-

sessing the colorfastness of textiles of all

kinds and in all forms to the action of

steam pleating processes. The materials

are not pleated during the test, and it is

emphasized that the test is not intended

for assessing the quality of the pleating

process (see 12.1).

1.2 Three (3) tests, differing in sever-

ity, are provided; one (1) or more of them

may be used.

1.3 The severe test is intended prima-

rily for wholly manufactured textiles

such as those made from polyamide and

polyester fibers. It should not be used for

textiles containing wool.

2. Principle

2.1 A specimen of the textile in contact

with specified undyed cloths is steamed

under specific conditions of pressure and

time and then dried. The color change of

the specimen and staining on the undyed

cloths are assessed with standard gray

scales. Color change and staining results

are reported as a grade from 5 to 1, with 5

representing no color change or staining

and 1 representing the most color change

or staining.

3. Referenced Documents

NOTE: Use current versions of all

publications unless otherwise specified.

3.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce-

dure for Gray Scale for Color Change

(see 12.2).

3.2 AATCC EP2, Evaluation Proce-

dure for Gray Scale for Staining (see

12.2).

4. Terminology

4.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of

a material to change in any of its color

characteristics, to transfer of its colo-

rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a

result of the exposure of the material to

any environment that might be encoun-

tered during the processing, testing, stor-

age or use of the material.

4.2 pleating, n.—the process of mak-

ing one or more desirable folds in a cloth

by doubling the material over on itself.

5. Safety Precautions

NOTE: These safety statements are for

information purposes only. The precau-

tions are ancillary to the testing proce-

dures and are not intended to be all inclu-

sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use

safe and proper techniques in handling

materials in this test method. Users

MUST consult manufacturers for specific

details such as safety data sheets and

other recommendations. Consult and fol-

low all applicable OSHA standards and

rules.

5.1 Follow good laboratory practices.

Wear safety glasses in all laboratory ar-

eas.

5.2 Follow manufacturer’s safety rec-

ommendations when operating laboratory

testing equipment.

6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.3)

6.1 Specimen holder (see Fig. 1 and

12.4).

6.2 Jacketed steamer (see 12.5) or pres-

sure cooker (see 12.6).

6.3 Two (2) undyed scoured cloths,

each measuring 5 × 4 cm (2.0 × 1.6 in.),

made of the same kind of fiber as that of

the textile to be tested or as otherwise

specified. In the case of blends, two dif-

ferent undyed scoured cloths are re-

quired, corresponding to the two predom-

inating fibers (see 12.7).

6.4 Gray Scale for Color Change (see

12.2). Refer to AATCC EP1 for addi-

tional materials, environment and use of

gray scale.

6.5 Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.2).

Refer to AATCC EP2 for additional ma-

terials, environment and use of the gray

scale.

7. Specimens

7.1 If the textile to be tested is fabric,

cut a specimen 5 × 4 cm (2.0 × 1.6 in.)

7.1.1 Place fabric specimen between

two (2) pieces of undyed cloth and sew

along one side to form a composite speci-

men.

7.2 If the textile to be tested is yarn,

knit it into fabric and treat it as in 7.1, or

form a layer of parallel lengths of yarn

between the two (2) pieces of undyed

cloth, the amount of yarn taken being ap-

proximately equal to half the combined

mass of the undyed cloths. Sew along one

side to hold the yarn in place and to form

a composite specimen.

7.3 If the textile to be tested is loose fi-

ber, comb and compress an amount ap-

proximately equal to half the combined

mass of the undyed cloths into a sheet 5 ×

AATCC TM131-2019

Test Method for Colorfastness to Steam Pleating

Fig. 1—Specimen holder.

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC

Licensee=Underwriters Laboratories - Ho Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,

Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST

No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM131-2019 251

4 cm (2.0 × 1.6 in.) Place the sheet be-

tween the two (2) undyed cloths, and sew

along all sides to form a composite speci-

men.

8. Procedure

8.1 Mount the composite specimen in

the holder between the two undyed cloths

(see 6.3) as shown in Fig. 1.

8.2 Place the holder containing the

composite specimen in a jacketed

steamer or a pressure cooker.

8.3 Steam under one of the sets of con-

ditions listed in Table I.

8.4 When steaming is complete, re-

lease the pressure over a period not ex-

ceeding 2 min.

8.5 Separate layers of the composite

specimen layers so they are in contact

only at one line of stitching. Dry in air at

a temperature not exceeding 60°C

(140°F). Condition at 20 ± 2°C (68 ±

3°F) and 65 ± 2% RH for 4 h.

8.6 Test specimens that liberate form-

aldehyde under steam pleating conditions

separately.

9. Evaluation

9.1 Evaluate the color change of the

test specimen as directed in AATCC EP1.

9.2 Evaluate the staining on each un-

dyed adjacent cloth as directed in

AATCC EP2.

10. Report

10.1 Describe or identify the sample

tested.

10.2 Report that the sample was tested

using AATCC TM131-2019.

10.3 Report the testing conditions:

10.3.1 Test number (I, II or III).

10.3.2 Nominal fiber content of test

sample and undyed adjacent cloth(s).

10.4 Report the test results:

10.4.1 Color change grade for tested

specimen.

10.4.2 Staining grades for the undyed

adjacent cloth(s). If the two cloths are

identical and show different degrees of

staining, only the heavier should be re-

ported.

10.5 Describe any modification(s) of

the published method.

11. Precision and Bias

11.1 Precision. Precision for this test

method has not been established. Until a

precision statement is generated for this

test method, use standard statistical tech-

niques in making any comparisons of test

results for either within-laboratory or be-

tween-laboratory averages.

11.2 Bias. Colorfastness to steam

pleating can be defined only in terms of a

test method. There is no independent

method for determining the true value.

As a means of estimating this property,

the method has no known bias.

12. Notes

12.1 Papers used in commercial pleating

occasionally contain reducing agents, that

with certain coloring matters, can produce a

much greater change in color than occurs un-

der the test conditions.

12.2 Available from AATCC, PO Box

12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,

USA; +1.919.549.8141; ordering@aatcc.org;

www.aatcc.org.

12.3 For potential equipment information

pertaining to this test method, please visit the

online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.

aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility

of listing equipment and materials sold by its

Corporate members, but AATCC does not

qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-

tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-

als meets the requirements in its test methods.

12.4 The specimen holder consists of a

copper tube 8 cm (3 in.) in external diameter.

The thickness of the copper is 0.15 cm (0.06

in.) The copper tube is wrapped with six lay-

ers of bleached cotton cloth weighing 125 g/

m2 (3.7 oz/yd2). The outside layer is made

from bleached cotton cloth weighing 186 g/m2

(5.5 oz/yd2). The edge of the outside layer is

folded back and sewn to provide a place for

insertion of the rods. The rods at each end are

made from 0.6-cm (0.25-in.) diameter soft

steel. The strength of the springs is not criti-

cal, but it should be sufficient to hold the layer

tightly against the tube. The springs are fas-

tened to one of the steel rods and should hook

easily onto the other steel rod (see Fig. 1). A

15.2-cm (6-in.) long specimen holder is pre-

ferred.

12.5 A jacketed steamer may be used, pro-

vided that the pressure can be accurately de-

termined and that no water splashes on the

specimen during the test.

12.6 A domestic pressure cooker may be

used as an alternative to a jacketed steamer. Its

dimensions should be sufficiently large to

avoid water splashing onto the specimen dur-

ing the test; it is suggested that the minimum

size should be 23 cm (9 in.) in diameter and 26

cm (10 in.) high. It should be fitted with an ac-

curate pressure gauge. If a domestic pressure

cooker is used, the specimen holder should be

loosely wrapped in one layer of polyester film,

which projects 1 cm (0.5 in.) over each end of

the tube and is not closed at the ends. The

specimen holder (see Fig. 2) should then be

placed in a rectangular metal container con-

taining 10 0.1 cm (0.06 in.) holes equally

spaced along the center of the bottom. The

container should be sufficiently deep to reach

to 1 cm (0.5 in.) from the top of the specimen

Table I—Steaming Conditions

Test Duration Pressure (Gauge) Temperature

I.II Mild 5 min 0.35 kg/cm2 (5 lb/in.2) 108°C (226°F)

II. IIntermediate 10 min 0.7 kg/cm2 (10 lb/in.2) 115°C (239°F)

III. Severe 20 min 1.76 kg/cm2 (25 lb/in.2) 130°C (266°F)

Fig. 2—Specimen holder in the container (for testing in pressure cooker).

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC

Licensee=Underwriters Laboratories - Ho Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,

Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST

No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

252 AATCC TM131-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

holder. The bottom of the container should be

slightly concave to ensure that condensed wa-

ter rapidly drains away. The container is then

placed on a stand that holds the container 5 cm

(2 in.) from the surface of the water. The quan-

tity of water in the cooker is not critical, but

water to a depth of 3 cm (1 in.) is suggested.

Expel air from the pressure cooker for 2 min

before raising the pressure.

12.7 If wool is used as one of the adjacent

cloths (see 5.3) it may have an adverse effect

on the dye in the specimen, particularly under

alkaline conditions.

13. History

12.1 Revised (with title change) in 2019 to

align format with AATCC style.

12.2 Editorially revised 2013. Reaffirmed

2011. Editorially revised 2008. Reaffirmed

2005. Editorially revised 2004. Editorially re-

vised and reaffirmed 2000. Editorially revised

and reaffirmed 1995. Reaffirmed 1990. Edi-

torially revised 1988. Reaffirmed 1985. Edito-

rially revised 1981. Reaffirmed 1980.

Reaffirmed 1977. Reaffirmed 1974. Reaf-

firmed 1971. Reaffirmed 1970.

12.3 Developed in 1969 by AATCC Com-

mittee RR53. Maintained by RA99.

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC

Licensee=Underwriters Laboratories - Ho Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,

Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST

No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

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标签： #试验方法 #色牢度试验 #色牢度

摘要：

本页面详细介绍AATCC TM131-2019标准，即耐蒸汽褶皱色牢度试验方法。该标准由美国纺织化学师与印染师协会发布，用于评估纺织材料在蒸汽褶皱加工过程中颜色变化的抵抗能力。测试通过将试样在指定温度、压力与蒸汽条件下处理，模拟工业褶皱工艺中的热湿环境，从而判断染料或印花在高温蒸汽作用下的稳定性与色牢度表现。AATCC TM131-2019适用于各类纤维、织物及成衣的色牢度检测，尤其对需进行永久压烫或褶皱处理的面料质量控制具有重要意义。掌握该试验方法有助于企业优化工艺、提升产品耐久性，并满足国际

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AATCC TM131-2019 Test Method for Colorfastness to Steam Pleating 耐蒸汽褶皱色牢度试验方法

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