AATCC TM179-2023 家用洗涤后织物斜度变化的测试方法

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AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2025 AATCC TM179-2023 341

Foreword

AATCC TM179 is used to evaluate the

change in fabric skew after home launder-

ing. AATCC TM207 is for evaluation of

seam twist before and after home laun-

dering. ASTM D3882 is only used to

evaluate fabric skew in its original (un-

laundered) state. The relationship among

results of these methods is unknown; re-

sults of one method should not be com-

pared to those of another method.

1. Purpose

1.1 This test method is used to deter-

mine change in skew of fabrics as a re-

sult of home laundering.

1.2 This test is applicable to all woven

and knitted fabrics suitable for home

laundering.

2. Principle

2.1 Marks are applied to fabric or gar-

ment specimens before laundering. The

alignment of marks is measured after 3

standard laundering cycles. Percent skew

is calculated and direction of skew re-

corded. A value close to zero indicates

little or no skew; a higher value indicates

greater skew; the calculations in this

method do not produce negative skew

values.

3. Referenced Documents

3.1 AATCC LP1, Home Laundering:

Machine Washing (see 15.1).

3.2 AATCC LP2, Home Laundering:

Hand Washing (see 15.1).

3.3 AATCC TM124, Smoothness Ap-

pearance of Fabrics after Home Launder-

ing (see 15.1).

3.4 AATCC TM133, Colorfastness to

Heat: Hot Pressing (see 15.1).

3.5 AATCC TM135, Dimensional

Changes of Fabrics after Home Launder-

ing (see 15.1).

3.6 AATCC TM143, Appearance of

Apparel and Other Textile End Products

after Home Laundering (see 15.1).

3.7 AATCC TM150, Dimensional

Changes of Garments after Home Laun-

dering (see 15.1).

3.8 AATCC TM207, Seam Twist in

Garments Before and After Home Laun-

dering (see 15.1).

3.9 ASTM D123, Standard Terminol-

ogy Relating to Textiles (see 15.2).

3.10 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice

for Conditioning and Testing Textiles

(see 15.2).

3.11 ASTM D3882, Standard Test

Method for Bow and Skew of Woven

and Knitted Fabrics (see 15.2).

3.12 ISO 6330, Textiles—Domestic

washing and drying procedures for textile

testing (see 15.3).

4. Terminology

4.1 laundering, n.—of textile materi-

als, a process intended to remove soils

and/or stains by treatment (washing)

with an aqueous detergent solution and

normally including rinsing,

extraction and drying.

4.2 skew, n.—a fabric condition result-

ing when filling yarns or knitted courses

are angularly displaced from a line per-

pendicular to the edge or side of the fabric

(see ASTM D123).

5. Safety Precautions

NOTE: These safety precautions are

for information purposes only. The pre-

cautions are ancillary to the testing pro-

cedures and are not intended to be all

inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility

to use safe and proper techniques in

handling materials in this test method.

Manufacturers MUST be consulted for

specific details such as material safety

data sheets and other manufacturer’s rec-

ommendations. All OSHA standards and

rules must also be consulted and fol-

lowed.

5.1 Good laboratory practices should be

followed. Wear safety glasses in all labo-

ratory areas.

5.2 Detergent may cause irritation.

Care should be taken to prevent expo-

sure to skin and eyes.

5.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen-

dations should be followed when operat-

ing laboratory testing equipment.

6. Apparatus and Materials (see 15.4)

6.1 Conditioning facilities and condi-

tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo-

rated shelves (see 15.1).

6.2 Indelible ink marking pen (see

15.1).

6.3 Right-angle marking device (trian-

gle, L-square or template).

6.4 Tape or rule marked in millimeters,

tenths of an inch or smaller increments.

6.5 Standard washing machine (see Ta-

ble I and 15.5).

6.6 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference

Detergent (powder, with brightener) (see

15.1).

6.7 Balance with at least 5.0 kg (10.0

lb) capacity.

6.8 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type

3 (see Table IV).

6.9 Standard tumble dryer (see Table

III and 15.5), or facilities for drip/line

drying.

6.10 Digital Imaging System (op-

tional, see 15.6).

7. Test Specimens

7.1 Test Specimens from Fabric Sam-

ples.

7.1.1 Consider each roll of fabric to be a

sample. Randomly select rolls from each

production lot as agreed.

7.1.2 Test 3 specimens from each sam-

ple. Cut specimens for Marking Method 1

at least 380 × 380 mm (15 × 15 in.) Cut

specimens for Marking Method 2 at least

380 × 660 mm (15 × 26 in.)

7.1.3 Where possible, cut specimens

from different areas of the fabric so that

each specimen will contain different

groups of lengthwise and widthwise

yarns. Identify fabric face; mark length-

wise direction on each specimen.

7.1.4 If it is of interest to determine

whether the magnitude of the skew

change is different from one side of the

fabric to the other, prepare 3 specimens

from each area of interest. Identify area

from which each set of specimens was

taken; i.e., left-side, center or right-side.

7.1.5 Test specimens prepared for

AATCC TM124 and/or AATCC TM135

may also be tested by this method, using

Marking Method 1 (see 15.7), or Mark-

ing Method 2, provided specimens are

cut large enough to accommodate the re-

quired markings.

7.2 Test Specimens from Garment

Samples.

7.2.1 Consider each garment to be a

sample. Randomly select garments from

each production lot as agreed.

7.2.2 Test 3 garments or a total of 3

panels from 2 garments. Use the largest

panels in the garments. Consider each

tested panel to be a specimen.

7.2.3 Test specimens prepared for

AATCC TM143, AATCC TM150, and/or

AATCC TM207 may also be tested by this

method, using Marking Method 1 or 2.

8. Conditioning

8.1 Prior to marking, condition test

specimens as directed in ASTM D1776.

Use conditions indicated in Table 1 for

Textiles, general and conditioning time as

indicated in Table 2 for the appropriate fi-

ber content.

AATCC TM179-2023

Test Method for Skew Change in Fabrics After Home Laundering

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC

No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 2025-04-14 18:24:10 UTC

Sold to: Nawal Analytical Labs India Private limited

Order Number: 00015024

342 AATCC TM179-2023 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2025

8.1.1 Lay specimens flat, separately, on

a screen or perforated shelf of a condi-

tioning rack. For garments normally

stored hung, hang separately on hangers

to condition. Allow space for air move-

ment on all sides of the garment.

8.2 Specimens will be conditioned

again after laundering.

9. Marking of Specimens

9.1 Marking Method 1 (see 15.8 and

Fig. 1).

9.1.1 Mark specimens without tension

on a flat, smooth, horizontal surface.

9.1.2 On each specimen, mark 250-mm

(10-in.) pairs of benchmarks parallel to

the length of the specimen and 250-mm

(10-in.) pairs of benchmarks perpendicu-

lar to the length of the specimen. Indi-

cate any alternate benchmark distances in

the test report (see 15.9).

9.1.3 Extend and connect benchmarks

so that a square is formed. Label corners

as A, B, C and D in clockwise direction

starting with lower left corner.

9.1.4 For circular knitted fabrics to be

used in tubular form (e.g., underwear,

sweatshirts, etc.), test in tubular form. For

others, slit tube and test in open-width

form.

9.2 Marking Method 2 (see 15.8 and

Fig. 2).

9.2.1 Mark specimens without tension

on a flat, smooth, horizontal surface.

9.2.2 On each specimen, mark refer-

ence line YZ perpendicular to the length

of the specimen, at least 75 mm (3 in.)

above the bottom edge.

9.2.3 Mark A midway on YZ.

9.2.4 Place one side of a right-angle

marking device along YZ so that the per-

pendicular side extends upward from

point A. Mark a line along this side of

the right-angle marking device, upward

from point A, perpendicular to YZ, at least

500 mm (20-in.) long.

9.2.5 Mark point B along the second

line, 500 mm (20-in) above point A. If

the specimen size is insufficient to mark

a 500-mm (20-in.) length, mark B at the

farthest available point along the line that

is at least 75 mm (3 in.) below the upper

edge of the test specimen. Indicate any al-

ternate distance in the test report.

9.2.6 or circular knitted fabrics to be

used in tubular form (e.g., underwear,

sweatshirts, etc.), test in tubular form. For

others, slit tube and test in open-width

form.

10. Laundering Procedure

10.1 Washing.

10.1.1 Select washing conditions for

testing from Table I. Set washing ma-

chine controls to generate the selected cy-

cle parameters.

10.1.2 Load for laundering shall con-

sist of all specimens in the sample,

plus enough laundering ballast pieces to

make a total load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg

(4.0 ± 0.2 lb).

10.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Al-

low machine to fill to specified water

level.

10.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993

Standard Reference Detergent to washing

machine as directed by washing machine

manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent

is added directly to wash water, agitate

briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agita-

tion before adding wash load.

10.1.5 Add wash load (test speci-

mens and ballast), distributing evenly

around center agitator. Restart wash cy-

cle.

10.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried

(drying procedure C), stop wash cycle be-

fore the water begins to drain from the fi-

nal rinse cycle. Remove specimens soak-

ing wet. For specimens to be tumble (A),

line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, allow

washing to proceed through the final spin

cycle.

10.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-

Fig. 1—Marking Method 1 for fabric (left) and garment (right).

90°

250 mm

90°

≥ 380 mm

250 mm

≥ 75 mm

Fig. 2—Marking Method 2 for fabric (left) and garment (right).

90°

≥ 380 mm

≥ 660 mm

≥ 75 mm

500 mm

≥ 75 mm

500 mm

90°

≥ 75 mm

90° 90°

Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 15.5, 15.10)

Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press

Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)

Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2

Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1

Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15

Final Spin Time, min. 5 ± 1 5 ± 1 5 ± 1

Wash Temp, °C (°F)1(II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)

(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)

(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)

(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)

1Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC

No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 2025-04-14 18:24:10 UTC

Sold to: Nawal Analytical Labs India Private limited

Order Number: 00015024

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2025 AATCC TM179-2023 343

rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,

taking care to minimize distortion. Pro-

ceed to appropriate drying procedure.

10.2 Drying.

10.2.1 Select drying conditions from

Table II.

10.2.2 (A) Tumble dry. Place the

washed load (test specimens and ballast)

in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera-

ture control to generate the selected ex-

haust temperature (see Table III). Allow

the dryer to run until the load is fully dry.

Remove specimens immediately.

10.2.3 (B) Line/hang dry. Hang each

specimen on an appropriate hanger,

straightening and smoothing facings,

seams, etc. Specimens should generally

be oriented in the direction in which

they are worn. Do not fold or stretch

specimens over the hanger. Allow speci-

mens to hang in still air at room tempera-

ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until

dry. Do not blow air directly on speci-

mens as it may cause distortion.

10.2.4 (C) Drip dry. Hang dripping

wet specimen on an appropriate hanger,

straightening and smoothing facings,

seams, etc. Specimens should generally

be oriented in the direction in which they

are worn. Do not fold or stretch speci-

mens over the hanger. Allow specimens

to hang in still air at room temperature

not greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry.

Do not blow air directly on specimens as

it may cause distortion.

10.2.5 (D) Screen/flat dry. Spread

each specimen on a horizontal screen

or perforated surface, removing wrinkles

without distorting or stretching it. Allow

specimens to rest in still air at room tem-

perature not greater than 26°C (78°F)

until dry. Do not blow air directly on

specimens as it may cause distortion.

10.2.6 For all drying methods, allow

specimens to dry completely before

washing again.

10.2.7 Repeat the selected washing and

drying procedure for a total of 3 complete

cycles, or an agreed upon number of cy-

cles.

10.3 Conditioning.

10.3.1 After final drying cycle is com-

plete, condition test specimens as de-

scribed in section 8.

10.4 Ironing (optional).

10.4.1 The wrinkles in most fabrics

flatten sufficiently under pressure of a

measuring instrument at the time of mea-

surement, so as not to cause measurement

error. If the specimens are extremely

wrinkled and the consumer would AL-

WAYS expect to iron a garment made

from the fabric, test specimens may be

hand ironed prior to measurement.

10.4.2 Use safe ironing temperatures

appropriate to the fibers in the fabric being

ironed. See TM133, Table I, Safe Ironing

Temperature Guide (see 15.1). Exert only

the minimum pressure necessary to re-

move wrinkles.

10.4.3 Due to the extremely high

variability of hand ironing procedures

performed by individual operators (no

standard test method exists for hand iron-

ing procedures), the reproducibility of

dimensional change results after hand

ironing has been found to be extremely

poor. Consequently, caution is advised

when comparing dimensional change re-

sults after laundering and hand ironing,

reported by different operators.

10.4.4 After ironing, condition test

specimens as described in 8.1.

11. Measurement

11.1 After conditioning, lay each test

specimen without tension on the same

surface used for marking in section 9. Use

the same measuring device as for initial

marking and measurement.

11.1.1 Calculation Option 1 or 2 can be

used with Marking Method 1. Calculation

Option 3 should be used with Marking

Method 2.

11.2 Marking Method 1, Calculation

Option 1 (see Fig. 3a).

11.2.1 Measure and record the diagonal

length of AC and BD after laundering, to

the nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth

of an inch (see Fig. 3a).

11.3 Marking Method 1, Calculation

Option 2 (see Fig. 3b).

11.3.1 Extend line AD in each direction

across the width of the specimen.

11.3.2 Place one side of a right-angle

marking device along line AD so that the

perpendicular side extends to point B.

Mark point A where this side of the right-

angle marking device meets line AD.

11.3.3 Next place one side of the

right-angle marking device along line

AD so that the perpendicular side ex-

tends to point C. Mark D where this

side of the right-angle marking device

meets line AD

11.3.4 Measure and record the length of

AA, DD, AB, and CD after laundering, to

the nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth

of an inch.

11.4 Marking Method 2, Calculation

Option 3 (see Fig. 3c).

11.4.1 Place one side of a right-angle

marking device along line YZ so that the

perpendicular side extends to point B.

Mark point A where this side of the right-

angle marking device meets line YZ.

11.4.2 Measure and record the length

of AA and AB after laundering, to the

nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth of an

inch.

11.5 Point A, for Calculation Options 2

and 3, plus D, for Calculation Option 2,

are marked after 3 (or an agreed upon

number of) washings. Points after subse-

quent washings should be indicated by

numbers or other symbols to differentiate

measurements (e.g., A).

12. Calculation

12.1 Skew Change Calculation Option

1 (see Fig. 3a).

12.1.1 Calculate percent change in

skew to the nearest 0.1% using equation

X = |100 × [2 (AC –BD)/(AC + BD)]|

(Eq. 1)

where:

X= % change in skew

12.2 Skew Change Calculation Option

2 (see Fig. 3b).

12.2.1 Calculate percent change in

skew to the nearest 0.1% using equation 2,

X = 100 × [(AA' + DD')/(AB + CD)]

(Eq. 2)

Table II—Standard Drying Conditions

(A) Tumble Dry

(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal

(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate

(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press

(B) Line/Hang Dry

(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat

Table III—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 15.5)

Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press

Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)

Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10

Table IV—Laundering Ballast Parameters

Type 1 Type 3

Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%

Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun

Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave

Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2155 ± 10 g/m2

Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged

Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm

(36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)

920 × 920 ± 30 mm

(36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)

Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC

No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 2025-04-14 18:24:10 UTC

Sold to: Nawal Analytical Labs India Private limited

Order Number: 00015024

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标签： #测试方法 #家用洗涤后织物 #织物

摘要：

本文详细介绍AATCC TM179-2023标准，即家用洗涤后织物斜度变化的测试方法。该标准由美国纺织化学师与染色师协会发布，用于评估织物在模拟家庭洗涤和干燥过程中因结构松弛或扭曲导致的斜度偏差，包括扭曲变形与纬斜程度。内容涵盖测试原理、样品准备、洗涤与干燥程序、斜度计算方式以及结果评定标准，适用于机织和针织面料的质量控制与产品开发。通过遵循AATCC TM179-2023，制造商可有效预测服装洗后外观变化，确保成衣在消费者的日常打理中保持良好的版型与垂感，进而提升产品合格率与用户满意度。该标准

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