AATCC TM143-2018te 家用洗涤后服装和其他纺织最终产品外观的测试方法

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阿拉丁 2026-01-15 12 484.38KB 7 页 16星币
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Copyright © 2024 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
270 AATCC TM143-2018te AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2025
Foreword
This test method and its accompanying
evaluation tools were developed for eval-
uation of woven fabrics with a durable-
press finish. It is common industry prac-
tice to use the method and scales for eval-
uation of other textile materials although
some specimens may have different ap-
pearance characteristics due to different
fabric constructions.
Standard laundering procedures remain
consistent to allow valid comparison of
results. Standard procedures represent,
but may not exactly replicate, current
consumer practices, which vary over time
and among households. Alternate laun-
dering procedures and machine param-
eters may be found in AATCC LP1, Lab-
oratory Procedure for Home Laundering:
Machine Washing (see 12.3) and ISO
6330, Textiles Domestic washing and
drying procedures for textile testing (see
12.7).
1. Purpose and Scope
1.1 This test method is intended to de-
termine the smoothness appearance of
fabric, seams, and pressed-in creases in
garments and other textile products after
being subjected to home laundering pro-
cedures.
1.2 Any washable textile end product
may be evaluated for smoothness appear-
ance, seam smoothness and crease reten-
tion using this method.
1.3 Textile end products containing
fabrics of any construction, such as wo-
ven, knit and nonwoven, may be evalu-
ated according to this method.
1.4 Techniques for seaming and creas-
ing are not outlined since the purpose is
to evaluate textile end products as they
will be supplied from manufacturing or
as ready for use.
2. Principle
2.1 Textile end product items are sub-
jected to standard home laundering prac-
tices. Appearance of specimens is evalu-
ated in a standard viewing area by
visually comparing the appearance of
specimens with appropriate reference
standards. Results may be reported as an
overall percentile value from 0% to
100%, with 100% representing the most
smoothness and crease retention. Results
may also be reported as separate smooth-
ness appearance (SA), seam smoothness
(SS) and crease retention (CR) grades.
All grades may range from 1 to 5, with 1
representing the least smoothness or
crease retention and 5 representing the
most smoothness or crease retention.
3. Terminology
3.1 appearance of textile end prod-
ucts, n.—the overall visual impression of
a textile end product quantified by com-
parison of individual components with
appropriate reference standards.
3.2 ballast, n.—in procedures for pro-
cessing or testing of textiles, material that
is used to bring the total weight or vol-
ume of the textiles to an amount specified
in the procedure.
3.3 crease retention, n.—in fabrics,
the visual impression of an inserted
crease quantified by comparison with a
set of reference standards.
3.4 durable press, adj.—having the
ability to retain substantially the initial
shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases and
unwrinkled appearance during use and
after laundering or drycleaning.
3.5 grade, n.—the number assigned to
a test specimen resulting from compari-
son to a scale.
3.6 laundering, n.—of textile mate-
rials, a process intended to remove soils
and/or stains by treatment (washing) with
an aqueous detergent solution and nor-
mally including rinsing, extracting and
drying.
3.7 laundering creases, n.sharp
folds or lines running in any direction in a
washed or dried specimen. NOTE: Laun-
dering creases are an unintended result of
restricted movement of specimens in a
washer or the dryer.
3.8 seam smoothness, n.—in fabrics,
the visual impression of planarity of a
seamed specimen quantified by compari-
son with a set of reference standards.
3.9 smoothness appearance, n.—in
fabrics, the visual impression of planarity
of a specimen quantified by comparison
with a set of reference standards.
4. Safety Precautions
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
sive. It is the users responsibility to use
safe and proper techniques in handling
materials in this test method. Manufac-
turers MUST be consulted for specific
details such as material safety data sheets
and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules
must also be consulted and followed.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas.
4.2 Detergent may cause irritation.
Care should be taken to prevent exposure
to skin and eyes.
4.3 All chemicals should be handled
with care.
4.4 Manufacturers safety recommen-
dations should be followed when operat-
ing laboratory testing equipment.
4.5 When evaluating crease retention,
use of a light shield can aid in prevention
of burns that could result from lamp heat.
5. Uses and Limitations
5.1 This test method is designed to be
used for evaluating the appearance of ap-
parel or other textile end products pro-
duced with washable fabric after home
laundering. Although this method applies
to laundering of garments, it is acknowl-
edged that common industry practice is to
also rate the product in its original state.
5.2 In general, it is preferable to con-
duct the test under relatively severe laun-
dering conditions. It is recognized that
special cycles or features are available on
current washing machines and dryers to
achieve improved performance on certain
items; e.g., gentle cycles with reduced
agitation to protect delicately con-
structed items, and durable press cycles,
with cool-down or cold rinses and re-
duced spin speeds, to minimize wrinkling.
5.3 Prints and patterns may mask the
mussiness present in textile end products.
The evaluation process is, however,
based on the visual appearance of speci-
mens including such effects.
5.4 The evaluation replicas and scales
were created from woven fabrics. It is un-
derstood that they do not duplicate other
fabric possibilities (knits, nonwovens).
The replicas and scales are to be used as
guides that represent various levels of
smoothness or crease retention.
5.5 The interlaboratory reproducibility
of the results of this test method depends
upon mutual agreement by users of the
method on the washing and drying condi-
tions as outlined in Tables I-IV and the
weighting factors to use for individual
components of the items as described in
9.7.3.
AATCC TM143-2018te
Test Method for Appearance of Apparel and Other
Textile End Products after Home Laundering
Copyright AATCC International
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 2025-04-14 18:24:10 UTC
Sold to: Nawal Analytical Labs India Private limited
Order Number: 00015024
Copyright © 2024 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2025 AATCC TM143-2018te 271
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1)
6.1 Steam or dry iron with appropriate
fabric temperature settings.
6.2 Standard washing machine (see Ta-
ble I, 12.2), for machine washing.
6.3 Wash tub, 9.5-L, for hand washing.
6.4 White towels, large enough to ac-
commodate test specimen, any weight,
for hand washing.
6.5 Standard tumble dryer (see Table
IV, 12.2) or facilities for drip, screen or
line drying.
6.6 Conditioning facilities and condi-
tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo-
rated shelves (see 12.3)
6.7 Scale with at least 5 kg or 10 lb ca-
pacity.
6.8 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference
Detergent (powder with brightener, see
12.3).
6.9 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type
3 (see Table V).
6.10 Evaluation area, as described in
Appendix A.
6.11 AATCC Three-Dimensional
Smoothness Appearance Replicas, set of
six (see Fig. 1 and 12.3).
6.12 AATCC Photographic Seam
Smoothness Scales, for single-and dou-
ble-needle seams (see Fig. 2 and 12.3).
The reproductions shown in Fig. 2 may
not be used for rating.
6.13 AATCC Three-Dimensional
Crease Replicas, set of five (see Fig. 3
and 12.3).
7. Test Specimens
7.1 For textile end product tests, select
three items for testing.
7.1.1 If the fabric is wrinkled, it may
be smoothed by appropriate ironing prior
to laundering. See Table I, Safe Ironing
Temperature Guide, in AATCC TM133,
Test Method for Colorfastness to Heat:
Hot Pressing (see 12.3).
8. Laundering Procedure
8.1 Machine Washing.
8.1.1 Select washing conditions for
testing from Table I. Normal cycle is rec-
ommended. Set washing machine con-
trols to generate the selected cycle pa-
rameters.
8.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist
of all specimens, plus enough laundering
ballast pieces to make a total load weight
of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± 0.2 lb). For very
critical evaluation and in arbitration, limit
the number of specimens per washer load
to those from one sample.
8.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow
machine to fill to specified water level.
8.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
Standard Reference Detergent to washing
machine as directed by washing machine
manufacturers instructions. If detergent
is added directly to wash water, agitate
briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi-
tation before adding wash load.
8.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens
and ballast), distributing evenly around
center agitator. Restart wash cycle.
8.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried
(drying procedure C), stop wash cycle
before the water begins to drain from the
final rinse cycle. Remove specimens
soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble
(A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al-
low washing to proceed through the final
spin cycle.
8.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-
rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,
taking care to minimize distortion.
8.1.8 Washer creases. Specimens may
be in a folded or creased state after wash-
ing. Such folds or creases should be re-
moved by hand prior to drying.
8.1.9 Proceed to appropriate drying
procedure.
8.2 Hand Washing.
8.2.1 Select washing temperature from
Table II. Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
of water at this temperature to the wash
tub.
8.2.2 Add 20 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
Standard Reference Detergent to wash
tub.
8.2.3 Agitate by hand to dissolve deter-
gent.
8.2.4 Add specimen(s) to water and
gently squeeze to distribute detergent so-
lution. Do not twist or wring.
8.2.5 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.
8.2.6 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in
detergent solution for 1 min. Do not twist
or wring.
8.2.7 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min
squeeze in detergent solution.
8.2.8 Remove specimen(s) from wash
Fig. 1—AATCC three-dimensional
smoothness appearance replicas.
A. For single needle seams. B. For double needle seams.
Fig. 2—AATCC photographic seam smoothness replicas.
Copyright AATCC International
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 2025-04-14 18:24:10 UTC
Sold to: Nawal Analytical Labs India Private limited
Order Number: 00015024
Copyright © 2024 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
272 AATCC TM143-2018te AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2025
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess
detergent solution. Do not twist or wring.
8.2.9 Place specimen(s) on clean white
towel. Empty and rinse wash tub.
8.2.10 Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
of clean water at the specified rinse tem-
perature (see Table II) to the wash tub.
8.2.11 Place washed specimen(s) from
towel in rinse water and gently squeeze to
distribute. Do not twist or wring.
8.2.12 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.
8.2.13 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in
rinse water for 1 min. Do not twist or
wring.
8.2.14 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min
squeeze in rinse water.
8.2.15 Remove specimen(s) from wash
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess
water. Do not twist or wring.
8.2.16 Using clean white towels, blot
water from washed specimen(s). Do not
wring or twist.
8.2.17 Proceed to appropriate drying
procedure.
8.3 Drying.
8.3.1 Select drying conditions from Ta-
ble III.
8.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the
washed load (test specimens and ballast)
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera-
ture control to generate the selected cycle
exhaust temperature (see Table IV). Al-
low the dryer to run until the load is fully
dry. Remove specimens immediately.
8.3.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each
specimen on an appropriate hanger,
straightening and smoothing facings,
seams, etc. Specimens should generally
be oriented in the direction in which they
are worn. Do not fold or stretch speci-
mens over the hanger. Allow specimens
to hang in still air at room temperature
not greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry.
Do not blow air directly on specimens as
it may cause distortion.
8.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang dripping wet
specimen on an appropriate hanger,
straightening and smoothing facings,
seams, etc. Specimens should generally
be oriented in the direction in which they
are worn. Do not fold or stretch speci-
mens over the hanger. Allow specimens
to hang in still air at room temperature
not greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry.
Do not blow air directly on specimens as
it may cause distortion.
8.3.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each
specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo-
rated surface, removing wrinkles without
distorting or stretching it. Allow speci-
mens to rest in still air at room tempera-
ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until
dry. Do not blow air directly on speci-
mens as it may cause distortion.
8.3.6 For all drying methods, allow
specimens to dry completely before
washing again.
8.3.7 Laundering creases. If speci-
mens are folded or creased after any dry-
ing cycle except the last, rewet and at-
tempt to remove the creases by ironing
with a hand iron at a temperature suitable
for the fabric being tested (see 7.1.1),
prior to additional laundering cycles. Do
not attempt to remove wrinkles or creases
by hand ironing after the final drying
cycle.
8.3.8 Repeat the selected washing and
drying procedures for a total of 5 com-
plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of
cycles.
8.4 Conditioning.
8.4.1 After the final drying cycle is
complete, condition test specimens as di-
rected in ASTM D1776, Standard Prac-
tice for Conditioning and Testing Tex-
tiles (see 12.4). (Use conditions indicated
in Table 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate
conditioning time as indicated in Table 2
for the appropriate fiber content.) Lay
Fig. 3—AATCC three-dimensional crease replicas.
Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.6)
Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5 ± 1 5 ± 1 5 ± 1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1(II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.
Table II—Standard Hand Washing
and Rinsing Temperatures
Designation
Wash Temp,
°C (°F)
Rinse Temp,
°C (°F)
Very Cold 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) < 18 (< 65)
Cold 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Warm 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Hot149 ± 3 (120 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
1Hot water may not be a reasonable selection for
hand washing or for the delicate items typically requir-
ing hand washing.
Table III—Standard Drying Conditions
(A) Tumble Dry
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press
(B) Line/Hang Dry
(C) Drip Dry
(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat
Copyright AATCC International
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 2025-04-14 18:24:10 UTC
Sold to: Nawal Analytical Labs India Private limited
Order Number: 00015024
摘要:

本篇文章详细介绍AATCC TM143-2018te标准,该标准是评估家用洗涤后服装及其他纺织最终产品外观变化的权威测试方法。内容涵盖测试原理、仪器要求、洗涤与干燥程序、评级体系(包括折皱、起球、接缝变形及颜色变化等关键指标),以及如何将测试结果应用于质量控制与产品开发。通过解读该标准,纺织企业、检测机构与品牌方可有效预测织物在消费者日常使用中的外观保持性,优化面料选择或整理工艺,从而提升产品市场竞争力并降低退换货风险。文中还对比了该版本与旧版的技术差异,帮助读者快速掌握最新规范要点。

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